Attendance at—and outside—the fall shows suggests that fashion is back big time. Street style adds a twist to this apparent return of normalcy. The confluence of trends on runways La ruePhil Oh documented this for us. It shows that the trickle up/ trickle down binary has become more of an open road, much like gender has become a fluid concept.
The conversation around gender has, counterintuitively, brought tailoring to the fore; as Gucci’s Alessandro Michele put it, “Women are really interested in men’s suits.” On the street this translated into a new take on Annie Hall’s androgynous style—with or without a preppy tie. Taking up space can be a way to express power or to keep people at arm’s length. This season, designers were displaying designs that sculpt shapes into the air with exaggerated and large-scale curves or pointed shoulders. The cool orderliness of winterwhites, which are the equivalent to a blank page, counteracted their drama.
The metaverse is transforming fashion into fashion. Street people are also doubling down on materiality, defining their bodies by corsetry, or placing a premium on tactility. Fake furs were all the rage. The nostalgia was also omnipresent, leading to a cosplay of stereotypical styles and types. Miss Havisham made an appearance via frilly white dresses; punks’ plaid was revisited, as was Western gear and, despite rising gas prices, motocross gear. The best way to be in tune with the times is to wear your heart on your sleeves.
Annie Hall 2.0
Borrowed-from-the-boys looks ruled the streets—think oversized blazers and trousers paired with boxy coats, chunky loafers, and even vests.