VIP guests gawped as they entered a DIOR-branded tent to discover the makeshift country vista — replete with about 19,000 real poppies, wildflowers and flora planted on hills beside two reconstructed English country houses. This was all for the 10 minute fashion show. The set was, of course, intended to evoke Grant’s rolling landscapes.
There were almost as much famous faces as flowers. David Beckham, Naomi Campbell, J Balvin and Justin Timberlake were among those in the Dior front row that gazed out across the tufts and petals.
Here are some highlights of Friday’s spring-summer 2023 shows:
DIOR’S FLOWER POWER
For spring, designer Kim Jones recreated the painter’s universe by not just evoking his masterpieces, but by creating the actual garments he wore while working — such as his straw gardening hat reimagined as a pergola fused on baseball cap, fashioned by Stephen Jones the milliner. Grant’s signature suits were also a key theme, yet reinvented in Jones’ style with clever fashion forward twists.
Myriad references riffed on the 1930s — the artist’s heyday. Two sleeves were used instead of a retro sash to a loose vanilla double-breasted jacket. They were hung in the middle of the jacket, peeking out from underneath. The slightly clunkier styles that were common between the wars saw tailored shorts with turned-down waistbands.
Woolly socks and gardening boots were a fun nod both to Jones, who spent a lot of time outdoors, but also to Jones himself, a designer whose sense of humor is never far from his mind. The collection was inspired by the garden and pond, using greens and blues along with pastels.
PAUL SMITH’S LAYERS
A fresh and sensitive wardrobe awaited guests at Paul Smith’s spring show in the southeast of Paris.
Layering and optical plays were the themes of the season, in looks that built on the British sartorial master’s bread-and-butter of color, florals and suited looks.
The elegant silver coat was loose and flowing and gave the look of a preppy style with its suit shorts, which led the eye to the sock and suede loafers.
It was also the realm of gentle optical illusions in patterning that gave several ensembles an innate kinesis.
A granite-colored tunic was made in grooved fabric. It rippled down in zigzags and changed shape as the model moved.
JUNYA WATANABE MAKES DENIM STATEMENT
The Japanese fashion designer — a protege of iconic Comme des Garcons couturier Rei Kawakubo — put out an urban, yet soft, display for his eponymous brand Friday.
At the heart of Junya Watababe’s designs is a concept called “Monozukiri,”That literally means “literally” “production”Or “manufacturing”Japanese and for him have come to include a knowledge-base of cutting-edge techniques to create clothes.
For spring, contrasting patterns, patterns, and textures were used. Distressed jeans with a slanted cut, complete with colorful appliqued patchwork, created visual tensions.
Logos of Coca-Cola and images of hamburgers on denim jeans made for a comment on the capitalistic nature of the world — and the fashion industry itself — in a nice moment of introspection.
There were many design innovations: One jacket in Japanese jean had a regal stiffness which contrasted well with the shabbiness of one breast pocket being missing from its jacket.
Guests sat in rows in Kidsuper like students in school assembly halls.
The irony was not lost on the invitees who appreciated the tongue-in-cheek vibe pervading the alternative house’s fun and engaging co-ed designs.
The vibrant looks were characterized by a urban style.
Painted faces in printed prints stood out from ponchos to pants and coats in a colorful array of clothes that covered the rainbow.
The most striking look in the 24-look collection was a multicolored, multilayered puff dress in lime and orange tulle. It looked almost like Cyndi Lauper as reimagined from a nursery teacher.