Kanye West, Julia Fox and other highlights from the Paris Fashion Week menswear shows

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Kanye West, Julia Fox and other highlights from the Paris Fashion Week menswear shows

Written by Nick Remsen, CNN

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CNN Style is an official media partner of Paris Fashion Week. See all coverage here.

Even in a more metaverse-obsessed age, physical fashion weeks still provide a good indicator of the trends in our wardrobes. These summits have changed a lot over the past two decades, thanks to Covid-19 and its variants. They now alternate between digital, in-person and online. “phygital” presentations. Despite all the turmoil, the fact is that these events are a powerful showcase of what’s coming stylistically.

Kanye West and Julia Fox were both present at the Kenzo Show together. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images of Kenzo

Paris Fashion Week’s latest iteration, which showcased a bounty menswear for the Fall-2022 season, took a swing at old menswear conventions to establish a new norm. Designers created an agenda that felt bolder and more inclusive than usual, with ideas that were often gender-disaggregated or blended.

Continue reading to see highlights from seven standout shows.

Front row buzz at Kenzo

Nigo, a designer/musician who founded A Bathing Ape, a well-known streetwear label, presented his first collection for Kenzo in front a buzzy crowd. Kanye West (or Ye) was also present. Julia Fox wore a Schiaparelli denim look while Fox wore a Schiaparelli denim outfit. Pharrell Williams was also spotted wearing eye-catching Tiffany & Co. shades with diamond-rimmed shades.

Pharrell Williams at the Kenzo show wearing a pair of Tiffany & Co. sunglasses.

Pharrell Williams wore a pair Tiffany & Co. sunglasses to the Kenzo show. Credit: Victor Boyko

Nigo’s appointment seemed a bit of a coincidence. The brand was founded in 2005 by the late Kenzo TakadaNigo was conceived in 1970, the year Nigo was also born. Both are Japanese and both attended Tokyo’s prestigious Bunka fashion college. Takada’s debut runway show was held at Galerie Vivienne in the City of Light, which is also where Nigo chose his own.
The catwalk was the first show by new artistic director, Nigo.

Nigo, a new artistic director, created the catwalk. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images

Although there were stylistic references back to 1970 in the form of patches on varsity jackets and embroideries on berets, there was a fashion forwardness to the collection with a variety of separates. There was also confidence in the use of color, pattern, and plaid. Tailored and workwear pieces both cut a genderless silhouette.

Loewe has big ideas

Loewe’s Jonathan AndersonShe is a creative thinker and adept at combining disparate ideas to create clothing designs that are worthy of double taking.
Playful images and bare skin were key components of the Loewe show.

Loewe’s show featured playful images and bare skin as key components. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images

Anderson presented a topcoat that was trimmed with holiday lights, denim microshorts, a gloved sweater that has long fabric tendrils running from the fingertips, as well as a jumper featuring a keyhole in the heart shape that exposed the left side of the nipple for Fall-Winter 2022. He also sent a knit muumuu with a meme-worthy cat and parakeet on its heads. According to the designer, the collection was partly inspired by what we see on our phones every day.

Louis Vuitton: The final moment

Another standout moment was the last collection by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. The collection was dreamlike and fantastical, and played with the signatures of Abloh’s work over the three and a quarter years he spent at Louis Vuitton before his death last year. There were skirted men, lace kits used as wings, hats that had spiked ears, a Wizard of Oz motif and colorful Keepall duffels. Abloh’s creativity never stopped.

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Backstage at the Louis Vuitton show.

Backstage at Louis Vuitton Show Credit: Matthieur Dortomb/Louis Vuitton

Ib Kamara was the show’s editor and stylist. told CNN Style that the group “wanted to keep it where [they] thought Virgil was with [them], but push it to where Virgil would’ve taken it.”

Avant-garde fun at Rick Owens

Meanwhile, Rick OwensHe did not disappoint with his Fall 2022 collection, a long-time dancer along fashion’s most avantgarde frontiers.

Helmets based on ancient Egyptian artifacts were attached with lightbulbs. Hoods became zipped coverlets, complete with small cutouts for visibility. A sleeveless tee with boldly written spellings of the word “urinal.”

Rick Owens adorned his new collection with functioning lightbulbs.

Rick Owens decorated his new collection with functional lightbulbs. Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti/OwensCorp

While speaking with CNN Style last year, Owens said: “The fact is, all of my life, I’ve tried to present something that is an alternative to a very strict aesthetic that we see in this world. We are expected to adhere to it, but I try to blur the lines. And not in a militant way, but in a way that’s saying, ‘I propose this as an alternative to the standards you are used to.'”
The collection included shirts inscribed with unusual slogan like 'Subhuman,' 'Inhuman,' 'Superhuman,' and 'Urinal.'

The collection featured shirts inscribed with unusual slogans such as “Subhuman”, ‘Inhuman,” ‘Superhuman”, and ‘Urinal.” Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti/OwensCorp

Hints of Gaultier at the Y/Project

Glenn Martens’ Y/Project is a place to go for daywear with a creative edge. Martens was originally an architect and has since become a leading source for daywear. His new collection included a number of renowned designers. Jean Paul Gaultier’s In a prelude of what’s to be at the haute couture shows this Week, iconic trompe la l’oeil prints were shown. Martens was announced last season as the guest creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier. It was part a new designer rotation strategy that saw Sacai’s Chitose Ae take the reigns in the summer months. Gaultier retired.
Y/Project's show featured a range of head-to-toe body prints.

Y/Project presented a range of body prints from head-to-toe at their show. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images

Bluemarble

Bluemarble — by Anthony Alvarez — hosted this season’s first runway show. Alvarez created his label from a 1972 Apollo 17 photo. His output combines American sportswear, European savoirfolk and Filipino artisanal touches. He created funky, comfortable and cozy clothes like a pair of jean trousers that are generously broken. They are paneled with a torquing and glitter-spangled fabric.

The Bluemarble collection was packed with fun details.

Bluemarble was filled with fun details. Credit: Bluemarble

Dior

Kim Jones was the artistic director at Dior Men and worked under the ostensible shadow of Christian Dior himself to mark the 75th anniversary of the label. Jones has created significant hype by tapping third-party collaborators like the artist in the past. Daniel Arsham Last season, the rapper Travis ScottThis collection is currently on hold indefinitely following the tragic events at Scott’s Astroworld performance, November, 2021).
Kim Jones's latest collection paid homage to Dior's founder.

Kim Jones’s most recent collection paid tribute to Dior founder. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images

Jones’s introspection was notable. Most important was Jones’ version of Dior’s famous “Bar”The jacket was first introduced in 1947 for women. It has a cut-and construction that adds subtle hourglass curves and architecture to the garment’s architecture. Dior’s original idea was so revolutionary at the time, that it earned him a whole moniker — the “New Look.”Jones’ men’s versions had double-breasted finishes and top-stitched seams.

Top image: Dior recreated Alexandre III bridge in its menswear catwalk.

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