Even in a more metaverse-obsessed age, physical fashion weeks still provide a good indicator of the trends in our wardrobes. These summits have changed a lot over the past two decades, thanks to Covid-19 and its variants. They now alternate between digital, in-person and online. “phygital” presentations. Despite all the turmoil, the fact is that these events are a powerful showcase of what’s coming stylistically.
Kanye West and Julia Fox were both present at the Kenzo Show together. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images of Kenzo
Paris Fashion Week’s latest iteration, which showcased a bounty menswear for the Fall-2022 season, took a swing at old menswear conventions to establish a new norm. Designers created an agenda that felt bolder and more inclusive than usual, with ideas that were often gender-disaggregated or blended.
Continue reading to see highlights from seven standout shows.
Front row buzz at Kenzo
Nigo, a designer/musician who founded A Bathing Ape, a well-known streetwear label, presented his first collection for Kenzo in front a buzzy crowd. Kanye West (or Ye) was also present. Julia Fox wore a Schiaparelli denim look while Fox wore a Schiaparelli denim outfit. Pharrell Williams was also spotted wearing eye-catching Tiffany & Co. shades with diamond-rimmed shades.
Pharrell Williams wore a pair Tiffany & Co. sunglasses to the Kenzo show. Credit: Victor Boyko
Nigo, a new artistic director, created the catwalk. Credit: Pascal Le Segretain/Getty Images
Although there were stylistic references back to 1970 in the form of patches on varsity jackets and embroideries on berets, there was a fashion forwardness to the collection with a variety of separates. There was also confidence in the use of color, pattern, and plaid. Tailored and workwear pieces both cut a genderless silhouette.
Loewe has big ideas
Loewe’s show featured playful images and bare skin as key components. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Anderson presented a topcoat that was trimmed with holiday lights, denim microshorts, a gloved sweater that has long fabric tendrils running from the fingertips, as well as a jumper featuring a keyhole in the heart shape that exposed the left side of the nipple for Fall-Winter 2022. He also sent a knit muumuu with a meme-worthy cat and parakeet on its heads. According to the designer, the collection was partly inspired by what we see on our phones every day.
Louis Vuitton: The final moment
Another standout moment was the last collection by Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton. The collection was dreamlike and fantastical, and played with the signatures of Abloh’s work over the three and a quarter years he spent at Louis Vuitton before his death last year. There were skirted men, lace kits used as wings, hats that had spiked ears, a Wizard of Oz motif and colorful Keepall duffels. Abloh’s creativity never stopped.
Chilliwack Down Bomber Coat in black with stretch rib waistband and cuff, exterior pockets, adjustable tunnel hood
Shell: 50% polyester, 50% cotton
Backstage at Louis Vuitton Show Credit: Matthieur Dortomb/Louis Vuitton
Avant-garde fun at Rick Owens
Helmets based on ancient Egyptian artifacts were attached with lightbulbs. Hoods became zipped coverlets, complete with small cutouts for visibility. A sleeveless tee with boldly written spellings of the word “urinal.”
Rick Owens decorated his new collection with functional lightbulbs. Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti/OwensCorp
The collection featured shirts inscribed with unusual slogans such as “Subhuman”, ‘Inhuman,” ‘Superhuman”, and ‘Urinal.” Credit: Valerio Mezzanotti/OwensCorp
Hints of Gaultier at the Y/Project
Y/Project presented a range of body prints from head-to-toe at their show. Credit: Peter White/Getty Images
Bluemarble — by Anthony Alvarez — hosted this season’s first runway show. Alvarez created his label from a 1972 Apollo 17 photo. His output combines American sportswear, European savoirfolk and Filipino artisanal touches. He created funky, comfortable and cozy clothes like a pair of jean trousers that are generously broken. They are paneled with a torquing and glitter-spangled fabric.
Bluemarble was filled with fun details. Credit: Bluemarble
Kim Jones’s most recent collection paid tribute to Dior founder. Credit: Stephane Cardinale/Corbis/Getty Images
Jones’s introspection was notable. Most important was Jones’ version of Dior’s famous “Bar”The jacket was first introduced in 1947 for women. It has a cut-and construction that adds subtle hourglass curves and architecture to the garment’s architecture. Dior’s original idea was so revolutionary at the time, that it earned him a whole moniker — the “New Look.”Jones’ men’s versions had double-breasted finishes and top-stitched seams.
Top image: Dior recreated Alexandre III bridge in its menswear catwalk.