Harry Lambert, Interview collaborator and the brains behind some of the biggest moments in celebrity fashion (hello, Harry Styles) takes us on a trip to Pitti Uomo and Paris Men’s Fashion Week, shedding light on some of SS23’s hottest trends. Below, Taylore Scarabelli (our senior editor) and the stylist discuss the looks at Louis Vuitton Y/Project Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Kenzo, Loewe and Mowalola.
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HARRY LAMBERT: Hi.
TAYLORE SARABELLI: Good morning! It is nice to see you. Thank you so much again for doing this.
LAMBERT: No worries. I have to admit, I’ve had the pages open to go through all the shows in depth, but I haven’t been able to get to it.
SCARABELLI: In a way that’s better, because we get your first take. Let’s start with Prada. Did you see it in person?
LAMBERT: No. I was only there for two days.
SCARABELLI: Right. So you didn’t get a paper coat in the mail then?
LAMBERT: A paper jacket?
SCARABELLI: Yeah. Invites from Prada were sent in the form paper gingham coats. It was a comment on disposability, I suppose.
LAMBERT : Yes, it might. It was almost like the gingham curtains that were on the runway.
LAMBERT: The show was really enjoyable for me. Some of the check prints reminded of Raf Simons Calvin Klein collections. I was particularly struck by the brown checkerboard gingham-esque coat that Depop just sold. The Prada collection was very fun and sexy. There’s this one shirt that’s under a jacket that my friend and I have been texting about.
SCARABELLI: What do you think?
LAMBERT: Take a look at 30. It’s this orange check gingham shirt with a squiggly applique on the chest and collar. I’m really into the bags as well. There’s a new jacquard they’re doing with the triangle logo, The Symbole.
SCARABELLI: Yes. Their new monogram.
LAMBERT: I’ll be honest, at first I wasn’t super sure about the Raf Simons Prada combination. But now, when I go into the stores, there’s a lot of things I want to buy. I feel like they’re starting to nail the commerciality of the pieces. Look 41, the graphic T-shirt with the bottles, the denim shorts, the cardigan, and the denim pants.
SCARABELLI: Perhaps an ode to natural wine trends?
SCARABELLI: It’s very twee, actually. It’s the hipster revival. Also, 31 is that a onesie or a shirt? Or a shirt tucked into?
LAMBERT – I think it should be tucked. It’s quite low on the hips.
SCARABELLI: Right? Mel Ottenberg requires one of these.
LAMBERT: Yeah. Some of the looks were very Mel. Overall, it was a good mix of Prada and Raf. It was sexy, but a little too farm-like. There’s really good knitwear, really good jumpers, and proper ’70s-esque colors. This contrast against the leather makes it feel very modern.
SCARABELLI : And wearable. We can now move on to Y/Project.
LAMBERT: Yeah. Everyone was talking to me about the stone runway. As I waited to get into a presentation I heard fashionistas talking about how models were struggling to walk on rocks.
LAMBERT: I don’t know if that’s true or not.
SCARABELLI : I was like, “You can really tell that Glenn’s been spending some time in the Diesel archive.”All graphics are so nostalgic.
LAMBERT: Yeah. He’s bringing back the era of bad taste.
SCARABELLI Mm – Hmm.
LAMBERT : I do remember it from the first time. That is when it gets scary. I saw loads of Diesel bags everywhere in Paris. Everyone was wearing them. I know we’re not talking about Diesel, but I think he’s created a bag that is affordable, and taps into that Depop resale, searching for your parents’ old Diesel clothes in the cupboard, kind of thing. The weird distressed embroidery—it’s bad taste, but it’s working.
SCARABELLI: Yeah. It’s actually really accessible. The trend is further supported by the resale aspect. I also love the tromp l’oeil illusion on these prints, it’s an ode to Gautier. Look six is adorable. The skirt print with the folded-over waist is the pants.
LAMBERT: It feels like Diesel’s expensive sister.
SCARABELLI: Also, pant boots aren’t going anywhere.
LAMBERT: They’re here forever, guys. But who actually wears pants boots?
SCARABELLI – Julia Fox.
LAMBERT: Yes. She’s single-handedly keeping them going.
SCARABELLI: Okay, wait. SCARABELLI: Okay, wait. Hot or not? The illusion tank with the nipples visible.
LAMBERT : I could never pull that off. But I mean, it’s really sexy. It’s very risque. These belts also remind me of the skater belts that I wore as a child with big buckles. I remember buying a pair of Diesel jeans, and they were £90, and it was all my money I had.
SCARABELLI: The also “fuck you”Earrings in look 22
LAMBERT: Oh my god, yes. They’re really good.
SCARABELLI: Someone was saying to me the other day that Y2K is like the ’80s for Gen Z.
LAMBERT: Totally. I’m at that age now where I’ve seen it come back around again, so it’s scary.
SCARABELLI All right. Let’s move on to Rick.
SCARABELLI – I must say, this is my first glance at condom.
LAMBERT : Oh yes. Full sex club, basement and condom. The guy that opened—that’s Rick’s muse, right?
SCARABELLI: Yeah. Tyrone Dylan.
LAMBERT: It’s all about statement shoulders. Extreme shoulder pads. It was amazing with the huge fireballs that fell into the water.
SCARABELLI : Very wild.
LAMBERT: I applied for tickets the day before the show, knowing there was no chance in a million years I’d get a ticket. I was devastated to miss it.
SCARABELLI : This runway seemed more dangerous than the one at Y/Project. These long pants are especially dangerous. Every Rick Owens runway, I’m like, “How was no one falling?” It’s a whole vibe.
LAMBERT : I know. There’s a lot of stairs, there’s fire, and there’s baggy, long pants. By the way, I’m intrigued, is there something deeper with Ludovic Saint Sernin closing the show?
SCARABELLI: Maybe they’re working on a collaboration.
LAMBERT – Who knows? I believe they share similar DNA due to the sexual power of certain clothes and probably have the same energy and interests. I’m sure they’ve met at a party and bonded over dark rooms and bondage.
SCARABELLI : Bonded over bondage.
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SCARABELLI: Vuitton is next.
LAMBERT – Vuitton was hot. But it was well worth the heat. It was my first Vuitton show. It felt special. We were right in middle of the runway. It began with a band and flag dancers. They were spinning and twisting these flags and then they stopped right in front. It was amazing.
SCARABELLI : And then there were Kendrick Lamar.
LAMBERT: Yes, it was the runway layout that determined what you could see depending on where you sat. So we couldn’t actually see Kendrick.
SCARABELLI: Well, he was performing from his seat on the runway, next to Naomi, which I thought was an interesting commentary on the spectacle of it all—the front row being part of the show.
LAMBERT : I loved it.
SCARABELLI: Also his diamond crown of thorns from Tiffany…
LAMBERT : It felt like a fun and joyous collection and I could see myself purchasing and wearing many of the pieces. It was very confident and enjoyable. It’s beautiful to see the show in person, actually, because you see how much detail is in each look.
LAMBERT: When they walk past you, you’re like, “Oh, fuck.” This is hardcore design, this isn’t just little truck bags and stuff. Plus seeing everyone decked head-to-toe in Vuitton—before Virgil, you didn’t really see many people wearing it out and about, he really brought it to people’s bodies.
SCARABELLI: I think it’s so amazing how he’s living on. Looking at this collection, it’s just so Virgil. It’s really cool how he was able to create this new vibe for Vuitton that is so easily replicated by his team, who are still there now. We’re talking a lot about AI and things like that, it’s almost like he’s posthumously designing for the brand. I was stunned by the spectacle of Louis Vuitton’s video last night. They’re able to execute what other people wish they could.
LAMBERT: Yeah. It’s going to be interesting to see the next chapter. I know the three people they’re talking to about replacing him for next season. There are many paths to choose from, but all of them are qualified to take over.
SCARABELLI: I can’t wait to find out.
LAMBERT: It’d be interesting to have a female designer there, but who knows? But yeah, it wasn’t a sad show, it was very happy and joyous. I’m sure everyone’s going to be trying to call in look 22, the suit with all the paper airplanes on it.
SCARABELLI : Oh yes. The meme moment. Also, that speaker backpack was just too crazy.
LAMBERT: It was music.
SCARABELLI: Amazing. OK, now let’s look at Dries.
LAMBERT: Yeah. So this was my first ever Dries show, and I’m a big shopper of Dries. It was incredible to see it in real life. “Oh, I love this so much.”These apron-esque trousers look great with pinstripe trousers, shirts and shirts. Dries does amazing tailoring that feels timeless but is modern at the same. Every look I liked, “I want to see boys dressed like that.”It was sexy and soft, but also fetishy.
SCARABELLI: Yeah, you’ve sold me. I’m just looking through it for the first time, and it’s really beautiful. Let’s look at Loewe.
LAMBERT – This was one of the shows that I really wished I could see in person.
SCARABELLI : It was a wild runway. Also, those Chia pets for feet.
LAMBERT – Grow your own shoes. I mean, it hearkens back to some of Jonathan’s really early collections under J.W. Anderson, where Anderson tied flowers to his shoes.
LAMBERT: Loewe is my next favorite megabrand. Whatever Jonathan’s doing is really working. You notice a brand is making an impact when, in the U.K., the Essex boys are going into the stores and buying the logo jumpers, but they don’t know how to pronounce the name.
SCARABELLI – The British fuckboys.
LAMBERT: Exactly. I always consider that a sign. Some people don’t get it, but he’s making a really good product, the stores are beautiful, and the campaigns are really clever. I feel like I’m not meant to necessarily understand it all—it’s like art, you know? I appreciate it.
SCARABELLI: Right. As for the bigger picture, we’ve been talking a lot about shifting norms around masculinity, and we see it in fashion—menswear is so much more exciting than it used to be. Do you think that’s finally trickling down to the masses?
LAMBERT: Yeah. I don’t think they’re shopping for a lot of the big, creative, runway, conceptual pieces.
SCARABELLI: No, but they’re buying into it.
LAMBERT: I think at the end of the day, that’s what most brands make their money from. So it’s fine. But there’s a sportiness to this collection mixed in with all that intellectuality that is really great.
SCARABELLI: If there’s anything he’s good at, it’s memetic fashion. Look at number 13, with the pants that were freshly hydrated. It looks as if the model peed.
LAMBERT: Yeah. It’s so good. There’s enough elements of performance that really excite you, and then underneath all that there are just really good clothes.
SCARABELLI: Yeah. It’s a great collection. Moving on. Kenzo. Let me know when it is up.
LAMBERT: Okay, Kenzo. This is a kind of nautical school boy world. I loved the collection. The tailoring was very fun. He’s very quickly refreshed the DNA of the brand. It still feels Kenzo but appeals to different people. There’s lots of different elements to it that I think hit loads of different wearers. I love layers, and I also appreciate accessories and hats.
SCARABELLI: Yeah. As a stylist, there’s so much you can pull from.
LAMBERT: Exactly. I think for some people, it might look a bit intimidating at first glance, but when you break down these looks, they’re actually really great clothes. The way it is styled makes it feel fun and quirky. These knitted hats are my favorite.
SCARABELLI: Yeah. It’s a fun, unique way to sell logomania, too.
LAMBERT: And it fits—the way it’s mixed into everything. I love a sailor-inspired look. These collars on some tops are stunning.
SCARABELLI: Oh my god, this elephant trunk tie, I’m screaming.
LAMBERT: So adorable.
SCARABELLI : Okay, on to Celine. I love look two.
LAMBERT: Yeah. It’s cute. It’s very boy in his father’s attic, pulling out his old military jacket and playing dress up.
SCARABELLI: And his grandmother’s brooches. Check out this button with a see-thru.
LAMBERT: The condom-esque one. Trend Alert: Protective sex wear.
SCARABELLI: Oh my god. Yes. We’re staying safe for Pride.
LAMBERT: The plastic fringed jacket in look 39.
SCARABELLI, Oh wow! We love the glamrock glamor and this little crop of top moments. Look at 29.
LAMBERT : Oh yes. These days, little crop tops are very TikTok-friendly for men. They’re much more adventurous with the fashions on there. The belly buttons are in.
SCARABELLI : What about look seven? Is that the skinniest tie that’s ever been made?
SCARABELLI – Is there anything else that you would like to see?
LAMBERT – We should talk about Mowalola.
SCARABELLI: I was wondering if we should throw that in even though it’s not technically Mens.
LAMBERT – I was very interested to see Lotta Volkova style it.
LAMBERT – This collection included elements of Alexander McQueen with the very low trousers and the binding at the arms. Fendi even had an element in the denim jacket, with the eyes on chest. Look 21. Remember those tiny button faces Fendi used to make?
SCARABELLI: Totally. What about this look with the nipples being cut out—the Mean Girls moment?
LAMBERT: It’s great, like look eight. I’m fully into this nipple vagina dress.
SCARABELLI, Ah yes, the Vagina Skirt.
LAMBERT: The vagina skirts are back.
SCARABELLI – These low-rise pants will go crazy.
LAMBERT: Yeah. Mowalola is a very popular artist. I see many people wearing her stuff in London and Paris. And she makes these ready-to-wear—I hate to say the word, but commercial pieces, which are instantly, recognizably her. I believe she has a strong brand aesthetic and DNA.
SCARABELLI : Yes, I agree. This collection with McQueen references makes sense for current fashion lovers who are obsessed about archival fashion. Even look 37 looks almost like a nod at Rose McGowan’s VMA look, the necklace-and-chainmail dress. It’s an Easter egg hunt for fashion nerds who are incredibly online, and I think that’s really compelling and fun.
LAMBERT: Yeah. It’s an interesting little treat to end Fashion Week.