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Fashion week and fashion generally tries to keep a delicate balance of trends and longevity. Designers create collections that are both cohesive and break some kind of barrier. They push their designs forward, inspiring new seasons of style, and they do this by crafting collections that are cohesive to their previous work. As fashion month approaches, we start to see clear fashion trends in 2023 as new designer collections are introduced around the world. Amongst TikTok’s “hot takes” on fashion week, an analysis of Anna Wintour’s subtle reactions (she seemed to enjoy the Tom Ford show), and many designer’s feeble attempts to include realistic body types on the runway, we are left with a jumble of opinions, critiques and questions. But when it comes to trends, there is one question that reigns supreme—would you wear it?
We, as consumers, go through the same tug-and pull of trends as designers but on the receiving side. Do we want to be realistic or aspirational? Do we shop for now? It’s exhilarating, but also fleeting. Or, should we shop for the next? At the risk of being a little safe, curate for ever. Spoiler alert: there’s no correct answer.
To be a conscious buyer is to be aware of the evolving trends and your own closet. Conscious consumers are those who seek out trends before they appear on your Instagram feed. The current state of the trend cycle moves at a dizzying pace—getting swept up in the current feels inevitable. Fashion is about creating your own style and art. This happens when the wearer stops participating in trends consciously and chooses to create it. Selectively participate. No designer should include every upcoming trend in his collections, and frankly neither should you.
The fashion trends for 2023 will be diverse. The Spring/Summer 2019 fashion trends include a continuation in controversial low-rise options, an influx of too-sheer for work slip dresses, heavy leather skirts, and delicate dip-dye. ‘23 collections from New York Fashion Week create a “choose your own adventure” game plan. You can scroll through every trend, but only a special few will realistically probably make it into your closet. I’For you to choose from, we have curated the top 7 trends from New York Fashion Week.
Sometimes a trend from one show can spark a wave of similar styles. In this case, the trend in question is sheer and the trendsetter is Fendi’s Fall/Winter 2022 collection. Although the Fendi collection was launched in February, its impact was felt in New York City last week. It’s no longer taboo to have undergarments show through your frock—in fact, it’s preferred. Nearly every major NYFW collection featured see-through garments. Tory Burch was a masterclass in creating realistically wearable sheers with strategic layering. Kim Shui, on the other hand, took the opportunity to show off all.
Jason Wu showed us several examples of sheer design in formal wear. A strong selection of sheer gowns were sent down the runway by Jason Wu in a variety of jewel tones, including floral, sparkly, and lace. Jason Wu spoke with him backstage, saying, “Of course, there’s always going to be dreamy gowns but you might see a sexy side of Jason Wu that you may not be so familiar with—but get used to it.”
Remember when feathers were used to border every hemline and sleeve? Well, they’ve officially been replaced by tassels and fringe. Tassel trim is typically neutral-toned, making it a great option to wardrobe minimalists and a broad range of designers. Brands such as Bevza (known to use elevated neutrals) and Bronx and Banco are known for their long fringes.
In an exclusive interview with Bronx and Banco designer, Natalie De’Banco, I got an inside scoop regarding the shift from the luxe night-life aesthetics we saw in her Fall/Winter ’22 collection to the earth-toned glam we saw for Spring/Summer ’23, “Since our resort collection was super bright and colorful, we are keeping the palate neutral and calming with blacks and beiges. That said, there won’t be a lack of color. We are using splashes of electric peach, lipstick coral and neon lime to add excitement to the collection.”
The textured tassel trim will be the ultimate party trick come spring 2023 but there’s no reason why you need to wait to wear the trend. When paired with a neutral sweater and hung from suede boots or on the back of a leather jacket, fringe and tassels look amazing.
Lengths of leather
For decades, leather jackets have been a staple of fashion week. This season was no exception. Coach showcased heavy and colorful leather jackets, but this season the trend was overshadowed by leather skirts. The NYFW runway was filled with leather skirts, from mini to long. Altuzarra and TK took a more structured approach to the style, while TK kept it simple. Since leather is traditionally a textile for fall and winter, it’s nice to see a piece that works all year round. This style is easy to pair with anything, so it’s definitely worth investing in for 2023
Oh Yes, Obliques
Cut-outs were all the rage this summer, especially a double oblique cut out (like this viral Cult gaia dress). While cut-outs dominated formal wear on New York’s runways, this time designers were choosing a side. One-sided oblique cutouts were everywhere and on everyone—Gigi Hadid rocked the look at Tom Ford and Karlie Kloss wore a one-shoulder iteration at Carolina Herrera. This style is a great way of highlighting your waist, showing a little skin, and playing up simple dresses.
Designers claim that the boardroom could be getting a makeover. Tibi, Sandy Liang, Peter Do and Peter Do were among the most anticipated runways of NYFW. Low-rise suiting options were everywhere. The two-piece suit has been at the height of trends for the past two years and thankfully isn’t going anywhere. You can still wear it. Absolutely Designers are offering low-rise pants that can be worn with regular or high waisted trousers. Low-rise trousers have a very short crotch, in keeping with the low-rise jeans trend. This gives them a well-tailored look instead of looking baggy. However, if you prefer a more baggy look, size up in regular slacks to wear them lower on the waist.
City School Girl
If you visit Manhattan’s Lower East Side neighborhood right now, you’ll see a strong presence of the city school aesthetic. This look incorporates elements of the girly, demure school aesthetic (plaid skirts with ruffled collars and rose bows) but fuses them to street-style grunge (heavy earrings, lug sole shoes, mesh layering and heavy piercings). At the heart of the neighborhood, you’ll also find Sandy Liang’s storefront—looking out onto the street with a front-row view of the aesthetic she’s helped craft. It’s no wonder then that Sandy Liang’s S/S ‘23 collection was a direct reflection of the environment with girly-grunge pastel mini dresses. Liang paired the looks with ballet flats (the trend is here to stay!) or sleek sporty sneakers. Similar versions of the ensemble were also seen at Coach and Maya Seyferth. If you’re eager to create your own version of the city school aesthetic, I’d recommend browsing the racks at your local vintage store first.
Dressed up Dip-Dye
It seems like yesterday that we were all wearing homemade tie dye sweatsuits due to quarantine-induced boredom. Designers believe enough time has passed to allow you to move beyond any tie-dye burnout. They have introduced a more elegant version with dip-dye for 2023. Dip-dye offers the same multi-tone color story and neon swirls as tie-dye, but without all the neon swirls. The subdued ombré coloring gives garments a one-of-kind appearance and naturally showed up on Ulla Johnson’s boho runway and surprisingly on Peter Do’s. Altuzarra, a designer, elevated dip-dye to formal wear with gowns that are dip-dyed.