Milan Fashion Week Men’s is heating up this week with the strong return to shows this season, after years of digital events and presentations now in the rear-view mirror.
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Dsquared2 opened the week as the first physical fashion show on Friday, followed by 1017 Alyx 9SM’s runway show and presentations from Kiton and Billionaire. Zegna, the week’s typical opener, will close the festivities on Monday night. Between, the spring/summer 2023 collections by Fendi and Versace, Dolce & Gabbana (Prada, Gucci, and more) will be a must-see.
Below, a look at everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week Men’s spring/summer 2023 season, from buzzy runway moments, the best shoes at presentations around the city, and the top trends from showrooms, parties and more.
Emporio Armani
Giorgio Armani, Designer, with models from Emporio Armani’s spring 2023 show at Milan. CREDIT: STEFANO GUINDANI
This season, designer Giorgio Armani’s younger contemporary label takes the vacation spirit to a new level, with shirts and soft trousers taking center stage in the collection.
The shapes are so thin that they barely touch the body. This allows it to breathe during summer months. Bold details – slits, vertical openings, cuts – reveal the skin, adding a note of vibrant sensuality that continues in shortened shorts and overalls that almost entirely reveal the legs. Pleated trousers are flattering for the figure, while deconstructed jackets, in new jacquard versions, reaffirm Armani’s core style.
The footwear line includes a new slip-on sneaker in molded leather and a new boot in leather.
Brioni
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The Roman brand’s new spring/summer 2023 collection is another foray into summer nonchalance, featuring soft tailoring in breezy fabrics. Everything was unveiled in a secret garden in Milan on Saturday. It is light and airy and designed to move with the wind. Standout items include the seersucker suit with matching belt, shirt and bucket hat as well as the introduction of a women’s tuxedo look.
All of these looks were paired with leather sandals, round-toe loafers, or the brand-new Crocodile Leather loafer.
Brunello Cucinelli
CREDIT: Courtesy Brunello cucinelli
This season, Brunello, an Italian luxury brand, isn’t afraid of color. Brunello is actually using a wider range in color than he usually does for his menswear line. Ginger-hued red, salmon orange, sunflower yellow and a wide range of light blues such as periwinkle, Oxford and ultramarine combine with the brand’s signature array of greys, blues and light beiges that represent the cornerstone of the collection.
After several years of growing and focusing on footwear, the brand is now enjoying success in this category. Highlights include the casual-meets – dress shoes, such as these tassel loafers, in chocolate brown suede and double-strap suede sandals.
Boss x Khaby
CREDIT: Courtesy BOSS
Hugo Boss’ Boss label celebrated the launch of its new collection with TikTok star Khaby Lame a special event in Milan on Friday night.
The capsule is comprised of all-black styles with leather details and a signature logo depicting Khaby’s likeness. The capsule includes a T-shirt and a hoodie as well as a varsity jacket. Khaby will release a doll featuring the social media star, which he co-created. It can be attached to the hoodie or used as a standalone accessory.
Billionaire
CREDIT: Courtesy Billionaire
Philipp Plein presented Friday’s new spring/summer 2023 line for his elevated tailor brand Billionaire at the Four Seasons hotel Milan.
These robes and pajamas, made from silk, are designed for the gentleman who wants to embrace the warm summer vibes. They also include deluxe leather travel accessories and tailored clothing in bright colours.
Most of the footwear styles this season are carry-overs from previous collections, updated to reflect spring 2023’s identity. Plein said that “you will not see any sporty, running sneakers in this collection, only loafers, simple white lace-up sneakers and casual dress shoes.”
Kiton
CREDIT: Courtesy Kiton
On Friday night, the luxury brand from Italy presented its spring/summer 2023 collection with an evening presentation at Palazzo Via Pontaccio in Milan. The evening’s installation presented 32 men’s and 12 women’s outfits, which are a sneak peek of the forthcoming women’s spring/summer 2023 collection.
Red is the main colour of the setting, from the venue’s light design and the glass walls surrounding the structure housing the outfits. Everything refers to the Red Dot, the graphic sign embroidered on every garment, which now lends its name to a cultural container to promote Kiton’s heritage.
Kiton claims that a series Red Dot-branded initiatives, including worldwide traveling events, will take off. They will promote tailoring, patronage and looking towards the future.
1017 Alyx SM
CREDIT: Courtesy 1017 Alyx 9SM
Matthew M. Williams, designer at 1017 Alyx 9,SM is increasing his footwear collection for spring 2023.
Following the developments of fall/winter 2022, this season’s collection features the Mono Boot in an expanded range of experimental colors and high tech yet artisanal special treatments.
The Aria sneaker will be available in both high- and low-cut versions this season. This sneaker is made using the knowledge gained from the Mono range. It has a thick statement sole which is both visually striking but also extremely lightweight. The signature sole is mounted on a lightweight upper, which allows for maximum breathability and comfort in the summer heat.
Dsquared2
CREDIT: Courtesy Dsquared2
Dsquared2 gets quirky for its spring/summer 2023 men’s collection. Multi-color surfer prints, crochet and knits with flowers and stripes mix with tailoring and biker wear detailed with Honda’s iconic logo – part of a collaboration with the motorcycle company for the collection.
Prints and patches on bags, T-shirts, and outerwear pay tribute to Bob Marley Foundation. Dsquared2 DNA gets tubed: maxi shorts in checked nylon, tie-dye shirts and hoodies are paired with flared ‘70s denim pants and soft leather ringed sandals. You will also find leather sandals in the collection, as well white boot shoes, biker mode boots, and tech sandals.
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