Autumn/winter 2022 fashion shows and trends – Best catwalk moments

This week, Hedi Slimane has presented his latest collection for Celine, for autumn/winter 2022, which he chose to stage in two historical monuments in Paris, the Hôtel de la Marine and the the Hôtel National des Invalide. The show, titled “Dans Paris”, was filmed by Slimane and featured Kaia Gerber.

Trend Takeaway: Cool classics

Ralph Lauren chose to forego the traditional fashion week schedule of autumn/winter 2022 in favor of a more elegant evening at New York’s Museum of Modern Art.

“When I decided months ago to share my new collection in this intimate experience, there was no war in Ukraine,”The designer sent a message to show guests. “The tragedy and devastation we are witnessing now was unthinkable. Back then all I could think about was coming back together with my teams and all of you to share the hopefulness that collaboration and creativity can inspire.

“In spite of our sadness, we continue to move forward together in our hope for peace and for a return of being together. It is a great honor to be able to share again with you.
not only a collection, but an optimism for living that respects the dignity of all.”

This optimism was reflected in a timeless collection of monochromatic pieces, punctuated with occasional bursts in red, and in the clean lines and tailored silhouettes that the label does so well.

Trend Takeaway: Enduring elegance

“I am so happy to be back in New York, a city that has always been close to our hearts,”Sarah Burton, creative director, spoke about the first show the house had held in the city in more than 20 years. “We showed the Dante collection here in 1996, and then came again with Eye in the autumn of 1999. It is part of our community, a place that has always welcomed us, and this season I want to honour that.”

“So, this collection is inspired by that idea of community, and specifically by mycelium, by the reality of nature as a community that is far, far older than we are. Mycelium connects even the rooftop of the tallest skyscraper to the plants, to the grass, to the ground, to animals and to human beings. Mycelium has the most profound, interconnecting power, relaying messages through a magical underground structure, allowing trees to reach out to each other when either they or their young need help or are sick. The idea is humbling – beautiful – and, of course, a metaphor for interconnection and for community between people, between us all. We exist as single, individual entities on one level, but we are far more powerful connected to each other, to our families, to our friends, to our community. Given everything that has happened over the past two years, that seems more important than ever. As a community we are infinitely more able to restore, reinvent, rejuvenate – heal.”

Trend Takeaway: Beautiful embroidery

“It was important for me to explore what it means to belong, how our roots influence our identity and how the power of community and togetherness is what truly brings meaning to the world,”Riccardo Tisci is Burberry’s chief creative office for the AW22 collection. It was unveiled today in Westminster. “Therefore, I wanted this collection to convey that intensity of feeling and to celebrate not only coming together, but the city in which we come together today; the city in which Burberry grew and established a family. To me, London is a place of dreams, a capital building on its heritage and unified by its diverse community and an attitude of moving beyond boundaries – of pursuing limitless potential.”

The collection was a celebration British culture, contrasting country with country, pageantry alongside punk, and exploring Britishness not as a fixed idea but as something that embraces potential.

Trend Takeaway:Tartan and sequins

It was the final show on the Paris Fashion Week schedule – and of a month of shows, and Miu Miu did not disappoint. The collection featured more tiny, preppy mini skirts, inspired by tennis and sport.

Trend Takeaway:Schoolgirl style and micro-minis

Chanel’s fall/winter 2022 collection was all tweed.

“Devoting the entire collection to tweed is a tribute,” explained creative director Virginie Viard. “We followed the footsteps of Gabrielle Chanel along the River Tweed, to imagine tweeds in the colours of this landscape… This is what Gabrielle Chanel would do on her walks through the Scottish countryside: she would gather ferns and bouquets of flowers to inspire the local artisans for the tones she wanted.”

Trend Takeaways Jumper dresses, jumpsuits and tweed

“This collection is dedicated to youth, in hopes that it can keep the unresolved poetry of adolescence like a flawless garment – in all its vivid romanticism, inspiring idealism, hope for the future, for a better world, and its dreams of perfection,”Nicolas Ghesquiere from AW22.

Trend Takeaway:Unexpected layering

The AW22 Balenciaga fashion show was a powerful one. Demna Gavasalia made a comment regarding climate change (with models walking through a snowstorm), but also paid homage to the people currently in Ukraine. Both on the catwalk (with blue and green finale looks) as well as with the show’s message about “a fearlessness to resistance”And “the victory of love and peace”.

“The war in Ukraine has triggered the pain of a past trauma I have carried in me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my home country and I became a forever refugee,”You can read the personal note of the Georgian designer on each seat. “This is why working on this show was so incredibly hard for me. Because in a time like this, fashion loses its relevance and its actual right to exist. Fashion week feels like some kind of absurdity.”

The designer explained why he decided to continue with the show: “Cancelling this show would mean giving in, surrendering to the evil that has already hurt me so much for almost 30 years. I decided that I can no longer sacrifice parts of me to that senseless, heartless war of ego.”

Trend Takeaway: Black head-to-toe and oversized tailoring

The Valentino show this season was all about pink. Nearly the entire collection was made in the same shade as the Pantone Color Institute’s chosen pink.

“Pink as a manifestation of the unconscious and a liberation from the need for realism,”The show notes were explained. “The accumulation of pink elements is such as to eliminate the visual shock to bring out, together, the unique character of the person, expressed by the face and the eyes, and the work on the pieces of clothing: the signs that shape them into a silhouette, the textures that give them consistency, the decorations that are part of the construction…The pink-out is an experimental yet deeply human gesture that enhances individuality, capturing values and feelings.”

Trend Takeaway: Bright pink everything

“I really wanted to create a synthesis of powerful, sophisticated femininity, with an interplay of multiple American and Parisian influences, sports and craftsmanship,”Matthew M. Williams, creative Director, said about Givenchy’s new collection. “Next to her stands a contemporary man with an instinct for chic nonchalance. On the runway, both are grounded by a sense of reality.”

Trend Takeaway:Large sequins and pearl jewellery

Isabel Marant’s season was influenced by Y2K. “desire to focus on the essentials”. “Getting dressed in a simple and comforting gesture, putting on a men’s jacket or an oversized coat over a skinny little dress, betting on the cosiness of a cuddly knit dress paired with Motocross-inspired thigh-high boots.”

Trend Takeaway:Stonewash denim, thighhigh boots and leather layering

Gabriela Hearst will be focusing on a particular climate solution with an overall aesthetic reference for each season. This was the theme for AW22.

“A progressive approach to conservation that centres on allowing nature to take care of itself. By enabling natural processes to repair damaged ecosystems and restore degraded landscapes, wildlife’s natural rhythms can ultimately create more biodiverse habitats. As part of her research, Hearst spoke to the British author Isabella Tree, whose latest book ‘Wilding — the Return of Nature to a British Farm’ charts the story of her pioneering Rewilding project on the West Sussex farm where she lives. Hearst asked Tree how she deals with climate anxiety, to which she replied, ‘By living in the solution.'”

Trend Takeaway: Buttery faux-leather and colorful knits

Olivier Rousteing, the creative director, presented a collection as a response for his own suffering as a result a 2020 explosion in his home. He said that it was a message about the power of truth and hope, and although not intended to be a response to the events in Ukraine, these are two things that we need more than ever right now.

“These runway offerings were not designed as a direct response to the recent horrific invasion of our neighbours and I would never dare to even think of comparing the suffering that they are going through right now with the problems that I have had on social media. Still, as we watch the news, my team and I do keep in mind this collection’s message: united in solidarity, we can rely on the power of hope and truth to push back against hate, lies and aggression.”

Trend Takeaway: Futuristic silhouettes

After being invited during the pandemic, Cecilie Bahnsen, a Danish designer, made her Paris Fashion Week debut yesterday. The show opened with Tove Ditlevsen’s ‘Night Wandering’ reading, which was translated by Michael Favala Goldman for the first time in English.

“Cecilie first began to read Tove Ditlevsen’s poetry as a teenager,”The brand explained. “Later, in her 20s, she identified with Tove’s search to find her voice. Tove was a prolific chronicler of girls and women, writing fearlessly about their complexity and waywardness and struggle for a place in the world.”

Trend Takeaway: Elegant layering

Nanushka chose AW22 to celebrate the creative exploration of functional and intuitive design. The collection was called “Industrial Craft” and its message was that if a garment can function well, it will also be beautiful.

“The way in which Bauhaus created a bridge between the Arts and Crafts movement and the era of Industrial Design was an initial point of inspiration – set against the almost surrealistic aesthetic of the 1922 Triadische Ballet, choreographed by painter, sculptor and dancer, Oskar Schlemmer. In ‘Industrial Craft’, we’re continuing to push the boundaries of what makes a garment functional, compounding an aesthetic style with a dynamic yet elevated relationship to our key values of practicality, comfort and tradition.”

Trend Takeaway: Wrap skirts and layered leather

“The radical elan of Art Deco permeates the Saint Laurent AW22 women’s collection,”The house said so. “The reference is not literal, informing the show more in essence and overall outline than in direct quotations.”Anthony Vaccarello mentions Nancy Cunard in the show notes. Nancy Cunard was an independent-minded activist publisher who dressed ahead her time using her own clothes “intrepid ethos”embedding it in our moment.

Trend Takeaway: Floor-length faux fur coats in floor-length and pared back suits

“Maria Grazia Chiuri is opening the doors of a new era,”Dior explained the AW22 collection. “The mesmerising silhouettes are set against the backdrop of The Next Era, a gallery of paintings signed Mariella Bettineschi and composed of large female portraits borrowed from the history of painting from the 16th to the 19th century. Their eyes, cut and duplicated, question the judgment that has conditioned – and still conditions – women…From clothing to accessories, the creations combine aesthetics and technology, revisiting the Dior heritage. A fascinating exploration between past, present and future.”

Trend Takeaway: Feminine tailoring and futuristic accessory

Off-White paid tribute to its late founder, Virgil Abloh. The event took place on the opening night Paris Fashion Week. The show, entitled ‘Spaceship Earth – An Imaginary Experiment’, began with the final ready-to wear collection of the designer and ended with several beautiful couture gowns. You can read more about this emotional show here.

Trend Takeaway:Eveningwear with high-low cut

Tod’s AW22 collection was a celebration Italian beauty. Walter Chiapponi, the creative director, set out to reimagine icons that represent Italian beauty and make them modern and versatile objects for everyday life. “Italian heritage reverberates in this collection’s aesthetic research, examining Italy’s culture, highlighting tradition that has always been rooted in the mission of Tod’s.”

Trend Takeaway: Toned-down tailoring

After taking over from Daniel Lee in November, Matthieu Blazy’s first collection for Bottega Veneta certainly made for one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season. Blazy addressed the question “What makes Bottega Veneta?”

“Bottega Veneta is in essence pragmatic because it is a leather goods company,” said Blazy. “Because it specialises in bags it is about movement, of going somewhere; there is fundamentally an idea of craft in motion. It is style over fashion in its timelessness. That is part of its quiet power.”

Trend Takeaway: Thigh-high boots with a high heel, edgy basics, statement leather, and It’ bags

“Our cast of Versace Women for AW22 is exciting,”Donatella Versace spoke of the show. “Girls like Avanti, Anyier and Tilly perfectly represent a Versace with new generation attitude and they champion diversity. They embody the energy running through the collection and the looks built on contrast and tension — like an elastic band pulled tight and about to snap-back with a build-up of energy. That feeling is just irresistible to me. It opens new possibilities and makes things happen.”

Trend Takeaway: Corsetry and high-octane glamour

Jeremy Scott, Moschino’s creative director, looked at the archives. He specifically examined the 1990 and 1989 collections. These collections had seen Franco Moschino add cutlery brooches to his readyto-wear. Scott started with this base and found inspiration in the stately home.

“A close to home feeling ensued, yet it became complemented by a study bordering on the unusual, if not the Kubrickian: If someone, or something, was tasked with creating the clone of a grand manor today, would baroque picture frames, stately armoires, grandfather clocks and crystal-dripped chandeliers still mark the trappings of a monied dwelling?”

Trend Takeaway: Embroidery

Lucie Meier and Luke Meier were embraced “an overarching feeling of elegance”In their show notes, they described their new collection as slick, modern, and sophisticated.

“Confidence: the voice of a woman with inner strength and conviction. Every garment has the dignity and subtlety of couture, in fabrics and construction, and the vitality of the shifts between our need to glow and connect, the reality of our daily lives and our desire to play and change.”

Trend Takeaway: Flat ankle boots and sculptured tailoring

“In the 13th century, Vincent de Beauvais’ Speculum majus endorses the mirror as an essential knowledge instrument,”Alessandro Michele, creative director, explained the inspiration behind Gucci’s AW22 collection entitled ‘Exquisite Gucci’. “Through the mirror, it is, in fact, possible to reach a transparent and exact comprehension of reality.”

“Therefore, I use the metaphor of the magical mirror to approach the phantasmagorical power of fashion. A sacred power that radiates from the surface of the fabrics. And there I work, on this tactile surface, through cross references, alterations, loopholes and grafts. Juxtaposing worlds and meanings. Altering the stability of perception. Manipulating and magnifying the existing. Through these interventions, I celebrate the clothes as real optical labs: magical machines that can give birth to fairy tales of metamorphosis and re-enchantment.”

Trend Takeaway: Sporty elegance

Dolce & Gabbana embraced metaverse with a collection which was part real-life and part virtual. The show was complete when avatars wore the collection and then transformed into real models, walking down the catwalk. It was the latest experimentation by the Italian label with new technology. This is a brand that has never been afraid of trying new things when it comes down to catwalk shows.

Trend Takeaway: Eighties’ power dressing

“In fashion, the word glamour has become synonymous with sparkle, seduction and allure. In keeping with the Armani mindset, this collection takes glamour back to its roots: personal charm. And it does so the Emporio way: playing with an eclectic equilibrium of contrasts.”

Trend Takeaway:Layering is a great way to save money

Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada continue to delight and amaze with their joint collections. This season, the show opened and closed with a simple white tanktop (worn by Kaia Gerber, a supermodel). Euphoria star Hunter Schafer). This is how the AW22 collection was described: “Pragmatic pieces given new emphasis and significance”.

“A fascination with and reflection of humanity is a fundamental principle of Prada,”The show notes included a note from the duo. “This collection is a commemoration of life and living – of the occasion of the everyday, affording importance to each moment.”

Trend Takeaway:Grey Nineties’ tailoring is top-notch and the basics are elevated

Roberto Cavalli was inspired by Maria Sophie, the last Queen from Naples, for his AW22 collection.

“In the heart of seduction, individualism and such total freedom, you can even play with cage dresses,”The show notes were read. “Cavalli’s magical cut-out thus becomes scaffolding made up of fabric bars that are assembled and disassembled on the body with a gesture of feminine self-affirmation.”

Trend Takeaway: Lots of leather and cut-out clothes

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Max Mara, a dancer, architect, textile designer, painter, sculptor and painter, paid tribute to Sophie Taeuber Arp this season. The house describes her as “an architect, dancer, textile design, painter, painter, sculptor and textile designer.” “a creative polymath whose oeuvre was overlooked for decades, and is now rediscovered…a modernist who invested even the most everyday objects with a sense of magic and mystery.”

Trend Takeaway:Statement winter accessories

“It is how one looks at things that changes reality, or simply gives it new nuances and possibilities. As ever light and romantic as she is softly grounded, this season Alberta Ferretti observes the feminine wardrobe under a new light, reinterpreting it in enveloping volumes, in a sensual immediacy that is expressed through layering and transparencies, lighting it up in a metallic sparkle that starts in the morning and lasts all day, and gives everything a sidereal glow and tangible preciousness.”

Trend Takeaway:Metallics and the red carpet hood

“The best way to explore the Fendi archives is through the Fendi wardrobes,”Kim Jones, creative director of the AW22 collection, said:

Inspired by Delfina Delettrez walking into the Roman headquarters dressed in a printed blouse stolen from her mother’s wardrobe, Jones excavated the house’s history to rediscover spring/summer 1986: a celebration of Karl Lagerfeld’s love for the artistic movement. “These are collections which, although they come from the past, feel very now.”

Jones reworked and paired 1986’s geometric prints, sartorial styling, and the lightness and elegance of autumn/winter 2000. “It’s a wardrobe designed for every aspect of a woman’s life, for every generation,” Jones says. “And it all started with Delfina.”

Trend Takeaway: Leather corsetry, sheer lingerie and leather corsetry

“The power of Diesel is that we talk to so many people,”Glenn Martens, creative Director, said that his first catwalk show was disruptive, fluid, fun and sexy. “We can push sustainability and innovation, and we can push experimentation and concept. It’s pure Diesel – you need put it on in two seconds and live your life.”

Trend Takeaway: Denim, more denim, and more jeans

“In the early 1930s a new band of female artists and photographers captured the fringe culture in the underbellies of the glittering capitals in mainland Europe. Jeanne Mammen, Madame d’Ora, Elfriede Lohse-Wächtler, Anita Berber and Valeska Gert each pioneered a particular vein of avant-garde expression. For AW22, we are with them, underground in a club that could be in Berlin, Vienna or Paris.”

Trend Takeaway:Thirties glamour

Supriya Lele, autumn/winter 2022 was inspired by the free-spirited spirit of a motorbike girl. “Speeding into the new season with a tough, confident femininity, that riffs on Lele’s signature Nineties and Noughties-inflected silhouettes, a sophisticated interpretation of sportswear and boldly-hued, body-celebrating sensuality.”

Trend Takeaway: Dress up in lingerie

“This season continues to play on subversive undertones with provocations in texture and colour,”Christopher Kane explains the AW22 collection. “A nod to sexual selection within the animal world, where males change their postures, colours and behaviour to compete and attract females.”

Trend Takeaway:Latex, tulle, and cut-outs

Described as “a love letter to silhouette and craft”Richard Quinn’s fall/winter ’22 collection featured his couture sensibilities. It featured intricate fabrications, detailed embroidery, and elevated shapes for which he’s well-known. “Structured volumes create a fashion armour, engulfing the figure in beauty and colour,”The show notes were explained.

Trend Takeaway: Elegant silhouettes with very little skin

16Arlington paid a powerful and emotional tribute to Federica “Kikka”Cavenati, co-founder of London label, was tragically killed in a car accident late last year. The collection is called “Tears” and was designed by Cavenati and Marco Capaldo, before her tragic death.

“Marco Capaldo and Kikka Cavenati were inseparable in life, and remain so beyond the physical partition of death,”The brand was mentioned in the show notes. “She is everywhere in this work: her playful wit lives in turbo-charged monster-marabou coats, waistcoats and bucket hats; her boundless laughter in the wet-look feather scarves slung across smoked topaz sequins. Many of this season’s feathers were unearthed from 16Arlington’s archive – treated with dye by Kikka herself, years ago.”

Trend takeaway:Glamorous sheer dresses and separates

Priya Ahluwalia was all about Bollywood this season, with a collection inspired the the rich imagery of traditional Nigerian storytelling and dramatic plots by Nollywood. “Bollywood to Nollywood, then, is Ahluwalia’s love letter to the films that informed her youth, placing them on a shiny pedestal for all to enjoy.”

Trend Takeaway:Graphic prints

David Koma’s autumn/winter 2022 collection was inspired by Britain’s most beloved sports, football and rugby. After 20 years of living in London, the designer, who was born in Tbilisi but was raised in Saint Petersburg, was granted British citizenship this year. This inspired him to reflect on British dressing.

“The collection embraces the archetypes of England with equal adoration: the upper class, the working class, and the sporty. From the ladies of London’s stately ballrooms to the party girls of the city’s dance floors, occasion-wear traverses silhouettes from the sculptural silk taffeta volumes of haute couture to the skimpy hemlines of little club dresses. Infused with the spirit of sportswear, the codes of both territories are diluted into daywear embellished with the regal sparkle and colours of precious stones.”

Trend Takeaway:Sporty separates

After winning the LVMH Prize and the BFC Foundation Award in 2021, Nensi Dojaka has become one of the most exciting names on the London Fashion Week schedule – and, for AW22, she did not disappoint. Dojaka, who wore her signature lingerie-inspired dress down the catwalk to Paloma Elser and Maggie Maurer (who also revealed her bump as she closed out the show), showed that she is embracing tailoring and leather and will be a regular red-carpet presence for many years.

Trend Takeaway:Cute, sexy clothing

Michael Halpern is now TheName for partywear in London. The autumn/winter 2022 collection – which was presented in the heart of Brixton – was all about reflecting on the past two years.

“With light at the end of the tunnel, our collective experience over the last two years can often feel surreal. The demi-couture at the heart of Halpern was never about escapism, but on the contrary, about infusing real life with a kind of glamour that lifts the spirits. During the last 24 months, this premise gained new relevance for the designer, who dedicated his two pandemic-era films to the community spirit. So when, for AW22, Michael Halpern asks the question, ‘What if it was all a dream?’ it isn’t to escape the reality of our surreal collective experience, but to accentuate the fact that it happened.

“The collection’s departure is a dreamlike tale, keeping this in mind. Halpern imagines Angelica Houston – an eternal inspiration – waking up from a deep, two-year sleep to find herself in a 1970s’ party version – via 2022 – of Cecil B. DeMille’s 1930 classic Madam SatanStarring his illustrious, Katherine DeMille.

Trend Takeaway: Eighties’ animal prints

“The collection is based on Portobello and Camden market in the late Eighties and Nineties,”Molly Goddard explains her autumn collection. “Our mum’s best friend when we were younger was very central to the Portobello social scene then and the collection is somewhat based around her. I would describe her from what I can remember as a cross between Marilyn Monroe and Mick Jones — big bleached blonde hair with a flower in it, red lipstick, a Fifties dress with an army jacket and trainers…The overall look is eclectic, here’s-what-I-found-down-the-market. There is a familiarity to this collection and the objects in it — each garment having a simplicity to it but each elevated into something special.”

Trend Takeaway:Dressy for every occasion

Simone Rocha created autumn/winter 2022 from ‘The Children of Lir,’ an Irish folktale about a group of kids who are transformed into swans and then return to their human form. “Two sons and two daughters. A dark lament. Crushed taffeta wings, and exploration of outerwear and what lies beneath. Bloodline and quilted blankets. Bitter sequins, blue velvet.”

Trend Takeaway: Dark romanticism

“The collection was inspired through looking at celebrations of the past, we loved the glamour and opulence of the 1930s and this has a strong representation in the pieces,”Orlagh Mcloskey, cofounder of the collection, spoke to us about ‘The Golden Age.’ “The print inspiration kickstarted from a vintage scarf we found in Portobello and the Rixo vintage aesthetic is showcased in the different silhouettes featured in each story in the collection.”

Trend Takeaway: Vintage glamour

Harris Reed’s AW22 London show collection, ’60 years a queen’, was inspired by Sir Herbert Maxwell’s 1897 book on Queen Victoria. “This isn’t so much a direct interpretation of the British monarchy’s sartorial inclination, but instead a look at how the club-kid scene has long borrowed, loaned and built upon the regal wardrobe — whether that’s in necklines of ruffs, masks and takes on ceremonial crowns or through evocative Elizabethan-era painted faces. 60 Years A Queen is a queerer interpretation of kings and… kweens.”

Trend Takeaway:Dramatic silhouettes and jewel tones

“For this show, I wanted to bring the excitement and energy of a night on the town to life — because I think right now, no matter where you are, we’re all craving that,”Michael Kors spoke of his sparkling autumn/winter 2022 collection. “And the clothes are really everything you need for stepping up, stepping out and making an entrance.”

Trend Takeaway: Head-to-toe, post-pandemic glamour

“The power of this pandemic drew parallels to the upheaval and reformation of society seen during the Industrial Revolution,”The brand spoke of its inspiration for this season. “This autumn/winter 2022 collection sartorially animates the stark class divide during this period where working classes laboured to develop new manufacturing processes and environments that seemingly benefited only the elite.”

Trend Takeaway: Head-to-toe sequins

Stuart Vevers’ new collection for Coach was inspired from the suburbs. Or was it? “a love letter to somewhere in America”. This collection is dedicated to small-town style. It featured lots of leather, shearling, and graffiti prints, all arranged in surprising ways.

“My collections often begin with a feeling, and for fall, the feeling was love,”He concluded.

Trend Takeaway: Unexpected pairings

The ever-cool Khaite customer is going to embrace a touch of glamour next season. Catherine Holstein’s latest collection embraces everything from sequins to silk slips to corseted gowns. These were all contrasted by oversized tailoring, slouchy two-pieces of leather and stunning statement coats.

“Another facet of the Khaite world is revealed,”The designer spoke highly of the new collection.

Trend Takeaway:Gothic glamour

“We are grounded in the notion that great design starts with intuition and emotion and then layered with logic and functionality,”Amy Smilovic of Tibi has described the latest collection. “Taming the extremes into pieces that manage to be utterly wearable and speak to our style and who we are. Balanced, but with opinion.”

Trend Takeaway:Sleek fit and Nineties silhouettes

“For our autumn/winter collection we found inspiration in the stars,”Nicky Zimmermann is the creative director. “There’s always been something so fun and intriguing to me about pop astrology and the idea that our personalities are influenced by our birth signs. We worked with artist Anita Inverarity on twelve key prints that represent each sign of the zodiac and have incorporated these across a variety of looks across the collection. We wanted it all to feel really eclectic with a sense of fun. We picked up the symbols and icons of the zodiac in our detailing and finishes and there’s a conscious clash of fabric textures in each look. It’s a collection that’s high on finer details. Maybe that’s a bit of the Virgo in me coming through!”

Trend Takeaway:Ethereal gowns

“I wanted the collection to not only evoke the intrepid and adventurous spirit of sailors and world travellers, but also the mystery and darkness of the oceans depths, populated with mermaids and mythological creatures,”Joseph Altuzzara spoke of AW22, when he dressed Gigi Hadid with his mermaid-inspired sparkly dresses.

Trend Takeaway:Oversized sequins

Gabriela Hearst quoted Professor Emanuele Lugli, who teaches art history at Stanford University. He also writes about politics and science. He also discussed our changing relationship to androgyny.

“Today, sexual and gender labels are no longer seen as natural, and their politics have been rejected. Young people especially explore androgyny to access the vital power and truthfulness to which androgyny can gain access. They rediscover cultures and voices for which androgyny was not just a feature of the past but has been, and still is, embodied in the everyday…Fashion is thus rediscovered as a privileged field of inquiry precisely because often it is the very practice that reiterates sexual and gender binaries.”

Trend Takeaway:Cool classics

Wes Gordon brought bold colours to a grey day in New York by introducing his autumn/winter 2022 collection. It featured a series elegant gowns in striking, often unanticipated colour combinations and graphic florals with an emphasis on statement-making silhouettes.

Trend Takeaway: Old-school elegance in clashing colors

Jack McCollough, Lazaro Hernandez and Proenza Schouler presented their AW22 collection at The Brant Foundation, NYC. The collection was dominated with fluid tailoring and a sporty, almost sporty approach to workwear.

Trend Takeaway: Relaxed fitting

Christian Siriano brought some serious colour to NYFW with a nearly entirely blue collection. His catwalk was dominated by super shiny patent leather and latex, which he incorporated into his ‘Victorian Matrix” theme. Coco Rocha, Karen Elson and other models walked the catwalk.

Trend Takeaway:Matrix latexes and bright, vivid blue

Jason Wu’s AW22 show is always one of the most beautiful in NYFW. He showed a lovely collection of ballgowns, dresses and other feminine pieces. Wu explained that the collection was inspired by graphic, hand-drawn fashion illustrations dating back to the 1950s and was meant to be an homage American couture craftsmanship in his show notes.

Trend Takeaway:Bows

Brandon Maxwell, whose supermodel-filled catwalk showed delivered the glamour as usual at New York Fashion Week, is another favourite. The clothes felt more wearable because Maxwell paired his signature ballgowns and oversized knitwear with some denim. It made the clothes feel much more versatile.

The collection was a personal one, dedicated to and inspired by his grandmother, who is suffering with Alzheimer’s.

Trend Takeaway: Dressed up/dressed down eveningwear