12 Bordeaux Wines, Made by Vignerons, to Drink Now

12 Bordeaux Wines, Made by Vignerons, to Drink Now

Château Massereau Vin de France Cuvée Tradition 2018, 13.5 percent, $27

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Château Massereau makes both sweet wines and dry reds like this one. This cuvée is generally 60 percent merlot, 30 percent cabernet sauvignon, with the remainder split between cabernet franc and petit verdot. Massereau used to be labeled Bordeaux Supérieur, but withdrew its wines from the appellation after running afoul of the staid bureaucracy. It now bottles dry wines under the name Vin de France. It is sharp, precise, savory, and refreshing. It is structured but not tannic with a slight herbal edge. (Camille Rivière/Fruit of the Vines)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Château Auney l’Hermitage Graves Blanc Cuvée Cana 2018, 13 percent, $30

The virtues of dry white Bordeaux are a hard sell, possibly because good examples from the best areas, Pessac-Léognan and Graves, are expensive and not easy to find. I love white Bordeaux and I love the succulence of the sémillon grape. (Cuvée Cana is 50 percent sémillon, 35 percent sauvignon blanc, 10 percent sauvignon gris and 5 percent muscadelle, an unusual blend in a region where sémillon and the other grapes have lost ground to sauvignon blanc.) Like chenin blanc, sémillon has a floral, honeyed flavor, a mineral tang and a luscious texture that keeps me rolling it around in my mouth because it feels so good. Auney l’Hermitage farms its vineyard organically on gravelly sand and clay. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant in New York)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

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Maison Blanche Montagne-St.-Émilion 2018, 14.5 percent, $42

The Despagne family farms its Montagne-St.-Émilion vineyard biodynamically and makes its wines with minimal artifice. This wine can range in percentage from 20 to 50 percent cabernet-franc depending on the vintage. The remainder of the wine can be merlot. 2018 is dense and concentrated with complex flavors of dark fruits, licorice, and spices. It’s structured and should age for years. (Selection Massale)

Credit…Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Clos du Jaugueyron Haut-Médoc 2017, 12.5 percent, $45

Clos du Jaugueyron ranks among my top small Bordeaux estates. Its proprietor, Michel Théron, farms about 17 acres biodynamically, and his wines are deliciously pure. The Haut-Médoc is 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 33 percent merlot and 7 percent petit verdot. It’s lightly tannic, with floral, stony flavors, and is a pleasure to drink. Jaugueyron also makes a great Margaux. (Selection Massale)

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